On my first day in Istanbul I stood on the side of my road in Besiktas for fifteen minutes, frantically looking back and forth like a tennis spectator, searching for my chance.
But the traffic is endless. It's impossible to cross.
And yet there go the locals, darting across the tarmac in their invisible force-fields, oblivious to the danger surrounding them, and finding the slightest of gaps between cars to slip through.
But the skill lies not in maneuverability, pace or agility. You soon learn that they key is absolute confidence, and out you strut, palm held firmly up to part the car chaos like a modern-day Moses of the highway.
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